A Tackle Shop Guide to Terminal Tackle & Rigging Components
Terminal tackle does not get much attention compared to rods, reels, and lures — but it is the part of the rig that is actually under load when a fish runs. A swivel that twists open, a split ring that straightens, or a sinker slide that fails under pressure costs you the fish, regardless of how much you spent on everything else. Getting the terminal components right is where experienced anglers focus, and where poor gear could cost fish.
A Note From Our Local Experts
"We stock Black Magic, Mustad, STM, Jarvis Walker and other big name terminal tackle brands because these are brands anglers trust — offering quality components that are either imported to a consistent standard or developed specifically for Australian fisheries."
- Ben Czulowski, Owner, Fishing Tackle Shop
What's in Each Category In Our Other Tackle
Each category below covers a different component of an assembled rig.
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Fishing Swivels: Barrel swivels, snap swivels, ball bearing swivels, and crane swivels. Swivels prevent line twist when using lures, live bait, or rigs that rotate under current. Ball bearing swivels are the standard for game fishing and any application where constant rotation is expected.
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Fishing Floats: Bobbers, pencil floats, and slip floats for suspending bait at a set depth. Used for species like bonito, tailor, and luderick, where keeping the bait off the bottom or in the mid-water column can often produce more strikes than a bottom rig.
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Sinkers: Running sinkers, ball sinkers, bean sinkers, star sinkers, and snapper leads. Sinker weight and shape determine how a bait sits on the bottom and how much resistance a fish feels when it picks up the bait. Running sinkers allow fish to take line without feeling the weight.
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Fishing Rigs & Bait Jigs: Pre-tied snapper rigs, paternoster rigs, flasher rigs, and bait jigs for catching your own live bait. Pre-tied rigs save time on the water and are tied to a consistent standard — useful when fishing conditions change quickly and the speed of re-rigging matters.
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Wire Traces: Single strand and multi-strand wire traces for toothy species including tailor, mackerel, and whaoo. A fluorocarbon leader is not a substitute for wire when targeting species with sharp teeth — wire traces are the only reliable way to prevent bite-offs on these fish.
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Split Rings: The small rings that connect treble or single hooks to lures. Split ring gauge matters — an undersized split ring on a large lure will straighten under load from a big fish. Match split ring gauge to the rated weight of the lure and the target species.
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Game Fishing Tackle: Heavy duty swivels, game hooks, rigging wire, crimps, and thimbles for marlin, tuna, and other large pelagic species. Game fishing terminal tackle is rated to significantly higher breaking strains than general tackle and is built to handle extended fights at high loads.
Frequently Asked Questions About Terminal Tackle & Rigging
What is terminal tackle and why does it matter?
Terminal tackle refers to all the components at the business end of a fishing rig — swivels, sinkers, floats, split rings, wire traces, hooks, and rigs. It is called terminal tackle because it sits at the terminal end of the line, the part that is in direct contact with the fish or the bottom. It matters because every component in that assembly is a potential failure point. A rig is only as strong as its weakest component, and terminal tackle is the part most anglers underspec relative to the rest of their setup.
How do I match my terminal tackle breaking strain to my line and leader?
The general rule is that no component in your terminal assembly should be rated below your mainline or leader breaking strain. This applies across swivels, split rings, snap clips, and wire traces — if any one of them is rated lower than your line, that component becomes the failure point under load. In practice, most anglers size their terminal tackle to match or slightly exceed their leader rating rather than their mainline, since the leader is the thinner and weaker connection point in most rigs. The brands we stock publish breaking strain ratings on their packaging — use those as the guide and do not assume a cheaper equivalent component is rated to the same load.
How often should I check and replace terminal tackle components?
After every session in saltwater, rinse your terminal components with fresh water and inspect them before the next trip. Swivels should rotate freely — if they are stiff or corroded, replace them. Split rings should not show any spreading or deformation at the join. Wire traces should be checked for kinks, which weaken the wire significantly at the kink point. Sinkers and floats are less failure-prone, but check any attachment points for wear. As a general guide, if a terminal component has been in the water more than a handful of times in harsh conditions — rough ground, strong current, or repeated strikes from large fish.
Should I buy pre-tied rigs or tie my own terminal tackle?
Both have a place depending on the situation. Pre-tied rigs are tied to a consistent standard, replace quickly when a rig is lost to a snag, and are practical when fishing conditions are changing fast and re-rigging time costs fishing time. They are also a useful starting point for anglers learning what a correctly assembled rig looks like. Tying your own terminal tackle gives you full control over hook size, leader length, dropper spacing, and sinker weight — which matters when you are dialling in a specific setup for a specific species or location. Most experienced anglers do both — pre-tied rigs for convenience and speed, custom rigs when the situation calls for a specific configuration.
