A Tackle Shop Guide to Jig Heads
Walking into the shop and facing a wall of jig heads can be confusing. It's the biggest hurdle for anglers getting into soft plastics. The secret is that you only need to get two or three things right: Weight, Hook Size, and Hook Gauge. This guide is how we explain it to customers in-store every single day.
A Note From Our Local Experts
"There has been many times over the years in the shop and online where I see anglers buy a great new fishing rod combo and a pack of the 'hot' new soft plastic lures, but they'll grab the wrong jig head to match. If the weight is too heavy, the plastic sinks like a rock and looks unnatural. If the hook is too big, it kills the plastic's action. If the hook is too fine, it'll straighten on a big flathead or jack. The experienced anglers know this. They buy a range of weights and sizes to suit the conditions, and they're always the ones coming back with the good fishing reports. It's the most critical part of the setup to get right.
I’ve personally used countless ranges of jig heads over the years, from the original painted models that went with Mr Twisters to old school models like the old Squidgy ball shape to modern models with the TT brand, among my often go-to models. It is the profile and penetration factors that stand out for me"
- Ben Czulowski, Owner, Fishing Tackle Shop (Ocean Storm) | 20+ years industry experience
Step 1: Choosing the Right Jig Head Weight
This is the most important choice. For estuary and inshore fishing, the golden rule is to use the lightest weight you can get away with while still feeling the bottom. A lighter jig head gives the plastic a much more natural, fluttering sink, which is when most strikes happen.
When fishing offshore in deep water, this changes. The lightest weight isn't practical. You must choose a weight heavy enough to combat the current and wind drift to get your plastic down to the fish.
As a simple in-store guide, we recommend:
- 1/16oz (approx 1.7g) - 1/8oz (approx 3.5g): For very shallow water (1-4m), calm days, and finesse fishing for bream or flathead on the flats.
- 1/4oz (approx 7g) - 3/8oz (approx 10.5g): The "all-rounder" zone. Perfect for estuaries, rivers, and deeper flats (4-10m) with some current. This is what we sell the most of.
- 1/2oz (approx 14g) - 1oz (approx 28g)+: This is for deep water (10m+), offshore reef fishing for snapper, or punching through very fast currents.
Step 2: Matching Hook Size to Plastic Length
This is the next most common question. A hook that's too big makes the plastic rigid and kills its action. A hook that's too small will cause you to miss fish, as the hook point gets buried. The hook should exit the plastic around the halfway point, giving the tail maximum freedom to swim.
As a general guide for pairing:
- Size 1 - 2/0 Hook: Your standard for 2.5" to 3.5" plastics (grubs, minnows for flathead, bream, perch).
- 3/0 - 4/0 Hook: The most common size. Perfect for 4" to 5" plastics (jerk shads, paddle tails for flathead, snapper, jack).
- 5/0 - 7/0 Hook: For large 6" to 8" swimbaits and plastics for mulloway, barra, and big offshore species.
Head Shapes, Keepers & Hook Gauge: When They Matter
It's easy to get overwhelmed by all the options. Here’s the simple breakdown of the models we stock:
- Head Shape: For 90% of fishing, a standard Round Head or Bullet Head (like the Berkley Nitro) is all you need. They sink straight and work perfectly. The other main styles are Weedless (offset) hooks for fishing snags, Internal Weights for a subtle presentation, and Jig Spinners which add flash for freshwater.
- Hook Gauge (Strength): This is critical. A fine-wire hook has a better hook-up rate on fussy fish like bream. But if you're targeting snapper, jacks, or barra, you must use a heavy-duty (HD, 1X, 2X) hook, or you will risk straightening it.
- Plastic Keepers: This is what holds your plastic on. For most plastics, the simple lead 'ribs' on a Nitro are fine. However, for stretchy Z-Man plastics, they will slip. You are much better off using a jig head with a 'collar' designed for it, like the TT HeadlockZ, which locks the material in place.
Frequently Asked Questions
Should I tie my braid directly to the jig head?
No, we strongly advise against this. Tying braid direct to your lure is a very common mistake. Braid is highly visible to fish and has almost zero resistance to abrasion. You must always use a leader. Connect a 1-2 metre length of fluorocarbon or monofilament leader between your braid and your jig head. This leader is nearly invisible (especially fluorocarbon) and, more importantly, provides crucial protection against rocks, reef, and sharp teeth.
Do I need to add a sinker to my jig head to cast further?
That's a common thought, but no. The jig head is the weight. It's designed to be a balanced system with the plastic. Adding a separate sinker (like a running ball) will kill the lure's action, make it look unnatural, and ruin your ability to feel the lure. If you need to cast further, the correct solution is to use a slightly heavier jig head (e.g., go from 1/4oz to 3/8oz) or use a thinner main line.
How should I store my jig heads? Should I keep them in the packets?
You can leave them in the packets, but they get disorganised, and then it's slow to find what you want. The best way is to get a dedicated tackle box or storage case with compartments. This keeps them organised, and lets you find the exact weight and size you need in seconds.
I'm always snagging. What's the fix?
Besides using a lighter weight, your best option is to switch to a 'weedless' jig head. This is an offset worm hook (like our 'Snakelockz' or 'ChinlockZ') where the hook point is shielded by the plastic. Your hook-up rate can drop slightly, as you need a stronger hookset, but it's the only way to get your lure in and out of heavy snags and weed.
When do I need a heavy-duty (HD) hook?
A heavy-duty hook is all about strength. If you are targeting powerful fish like snapper, mulloway, jacks, or barra, you need an HD hook. Using a standard fine-wire hook on these fish is a common mistake that often results in a straightened, lost fish, just as Ben mentioned in the note above.
When would I use a jig spinner attachment?
Jig spinners are small spinner blades that attach to your jig head. We've found they are very effective in freshwater, especially for species like trout, redfin, and bass. The extra flash and vibration can trigger a bite when a plain plastic won't, especially in murky water.
